What happened to the lazy days of summer?

Last day of school

One of the most gratifying things about keeping this blog is that, in hashing out things that bug me about the school experience in Buenos Aires – things that are lacking, broken, perplexing – I often end up discovering the flip side of those concerns in the US system. This gives me a deeper understanding of where my own fears are rooted and often leads me to the realization that, actually, this “otherness” that my kids are immersed in is not nearly as scary to me as the opposite end of the spectrum. And I end up learning something about myself. The subtitle in my header, cultural bone-baring, has to do with this – laying bare my own cultural moorings as well as those I begin to uncover in Argentine culture.

Case in point: The length of the school day/year, or in other words, net time spent in educational institution. I have mentioned the short school day here several times in previous posts. If we add to that the increasingly long list of feriados (thank you, Cristina), missed days due to strikes, and whopping summer vacation (3 ½ months for my kids!) – well, you can see where I’m going with this. It is a major red flag when I plug it all into the ‘net time’ formula. Will it all add up to them being something like a year behind by the time they finish high school? And that’s only compared to the 180-day US school year; god forbid I should start comparing it to the Chinese!

Well, now that I’ve brought the Chinese into it, as a matter of fact that is exactly what has been going on in the States in recent years. Comparisons to the Chinese, I mean. And apparently the quantity over quality approach is at the forefront of current proposals to lengthen the US school year to 12 months. Because we must keep up with the Chinese. However, more disturbing to me than the idea of no proper summer vacation are the reasons given by US high school students in opposition to the 12-month school year in this telling example in Teen Ink magazine. The essay focuses on summer internships and jobs in its argument, as do many of the follow-up comments (except for the one from China, ironically.)

Even though the teenage author and responses are obviously opposed to 12 months of school, their arguments seem to echo the same culture of work, work, work that’s behind the 12-month proposal in the first place. Not that I have a problem with summer internships and jobs (I would actually love for my kids to have those opportunities), but what I found oddly missing in the essay or follow-up were any protests about having to forego the social aspects of free time in summer, travel or just having time to read for pleasure and hang out with friends. For me, the kind of emotional and social maturity and self-exploration that comes with having the time to enjoy these things is right up there with more math. And the long break is good for the soul. (Ok, maybe not 3 ½ months worth, but still…) There is something sad in the fact that those teenagers don’t lobby for their right to sleep late in summer. And what this implies is that American teenagers – at least the ones who participated in this debate – are well on their way to having acquired the uber work ethic in their already jam-packed year-round schedules, so much so that the ‘sleeping late’ argument doesn’t even cross their minds.

Well. My Argentine teenagers are masters of the ‘sleeping late’ argument. They seem to think it’s some kind of divine right, becoming truly flummoxed and offended at the mere suggestion of getting up early to take advantage of their summer days. In fact, Argentina is really just one giant lounge-fest for most middle-class teenagers when they’re not in school. They hang out in parks, play their guitars, sing, drink mate, stay out all night – in other words, they’ve got their priorities straight. They truly take their leisure seriously and would no doubt take to the streets to defend their right to it if faced with the threat of 12 months of school. Like I said, I’d love it if my kids would do something a little more productive with all that free time in summer – get a part-time job or volunteer — but deep down, I actually kind of like that they so militantly defend their right to just hang out. I guess because if I dig way back to my own adolescence, I can relate. And honestly, I find it hard to relate to this generation of teenagers in the US who clamor for their right to spend the summer working. So there it is: perhaps I’m more Argentine than I think.

Of course, none of this really does anything to resolve my inner debate about the short schoolday in Buenos Aires and what sort of long-term consequences it will have. However, it does ease my mind a little about the intrinsic value of what teenagers do with the rest of their time here, either in summer or in after-school hours and the cultural relevance it has for me personally. They definitely have plenty of time to explore music, art, sports, whatever, without the stress of so many hours of school and homework. Who knows; perhaps the freedom to have a good time and lack of pressure in high school actually leads to more mature college students. This is certainly the assessment offered by the guys at BA Cast podcast in their education series, when they claim that university in Argentina is about serious study after all the partying in high school is over, whereas it is often just the opposite in the US.

I was recently watching a documentary about the history of jazz. There’s a part where Wynton Marsalis talks about how jazz is so fundamentally American that it could never have emerged anywhere but the US. He attributes this to the unique ethnic and cultural diversity of late 19th-century New Orleans and how this bred the ability to improvise, both in everyday life as well as in music. The Argentines know something about this as well. Thinking about that and the current trend in the US toward getting students to perform like the Chinese, I wonder if great jazz could ever have come out of a country like China?

University Prep Schools in Buenos Aires: The case for ILSE

I have lately come to believe that the education debate is kind of in free-fall, with different solutions, alternatives and panaceas up for grabs. I suppose this is the product of having dealt with three different systems in as many countries, rendering me muddled and confused as to what’s really best for my kids at the moment or in the long run (not necessarily the same thing.) I have gone from leaving No Child Left Behind far behind when we moved from the US, to a public school in southern Spain that appeared to be mainly about getting through all their textbooks and memorizing long lists of bones, muscles, plants and provinces; then we crossed back over the pond to a “progressive” private elementary school in BsAs. that often seemed more like a cage of monkeys than a school. This last finally led us to our current best option for high school: ILSE (Instituto Libre de Segunda Enseñanza), a traditional, uniformed – some might say old-fashioned – school that came with the initial filter of a heavy-duty entrance exam (see previous post). Who knew such a school would turn out to be the least of all evils and perhaps even the best of all worlds?

Despite my continued misgivings about the education my children are getting, when people ask if we plan to stay in Argentina, to my surprise I find myself mentioning school as one of the most compelling reasons for not moving on to cleaner, cheaper, more first-world climes at present. How did this happen, me and all my complaining and second-guessing of so many systems? To be sure, I’m definitely not convinced that their schooling is suddenly fantastic, but I’m also not convinced that the alternatives available to them in the US would necessarily be better, at least in terms of the big picture. Yes, they would have a full school day, elective classes, better facilities, more resources, sports, etc. – all things I wish they had – but I am not so sure that they would in fact be learning more. And then there are the social realities of high school life in the US that don’t need pointing out…

Honestly, I started writing about my kids’ schooling when they began first grade in Spain as a way to hash out my concerns and frequent bafflement. These have always at heart been largely due to my foreignness to the system and local codes, and compounded by the fact that my brain has been constantly fed by the education debate in the US conveniently coinciding with my kids being educated abroad. So in my surprising present state of quasi-satisfaction, I set out to clarify some of my lingering doubts about ILSE and how it differs from the other colegios universitarios de la UBA (see previous post for basic description of this unique system of university prep schools). In an interview with ILSE Vice Principal (Vicerrector), Roald Devetac, I had the opportunity to discuss several issues that may prove interesting for other expat parents looking for high school alternatives for their kids in Buenos Aires.

My first question was regarding the school’s academic focus compared to the Nacional Buenos Aires (humanities), Carlos Pelegrini (historically more business-oriented, although has undergone a shift in recent years) and the new Agronomía (agro-technical). According to Mr. Devetac, ILSE’s focus is comprehensive and humanities-based, much like the Nacional Buenos Aires. The latter being historically the most prestigious of all these schools, I told him we had chosen ILSE over the Buenos Aires because it was similar academically (actually, nearly identical; see curricula for both at ILSE and CNBA), but differed in three key aspects for us: no third shift, no teacher strikes, no student takeovers. I was curious as to why the last two issues do not seem to come up at ILSE as part of the public university system. As such, it has never been sufficiently clear to me everything implied by the assertion that these schools all “dependen de la UBA (Universidad de Buenos Aires).” If they all “depend” equally, then why do neither ILSE teachers nor students go on strike like they do in the others? The answer is that ILSE’s relationship of dependency (more aptly translated as ‘governance by’) is limited to the UBA-designed academic curriculum. While this relationship extends to politics, policy, administration and student council in the other schools, ILSE is an independent institution on all fronts except its curriculum. This independence is also reflected in the fact that its subsidy is only 70%, the remaining fee of 30% effectively rendering it a private school, while the others are completely public. For me this guarantees that my kids’ classes will be equally challenging academically, but they won’t be cancelled due to walkouts like the one that went on for weeks at the Pellegrini last year due to parent, student and faculty opposition to the choice of new principal there.

Another feature that sets ILSE apart from the other universitarios is its reputation for strict discipline. Notably, students are required to wear uniforms and stand up when a teacher enters the classroom. There is also a very clearly defined system of sanctions for non-compliance with the rules. As I mentioned in my original post on Argentine schools, for some parents who grew up here, this kind of requirement may be reminiscent of the years of harsh repression in schools during the dictatorship of the 1970s. (For a good film depicting that atmosphere in the Nacional Buenos Aires, see La Mirada Invisible.) In fact, a number of our friends overtly criticized ILSE and discouraged our choice for this reason when we decided on the school. However, not having lived through those dark times in Argentina myself, but rather having lived through the backlash of its aftermath, my initial impression of ILSE was one of clear rules aimed at students’ best interests, genuine prioritization of academic excellence, and quiet, focused classrooms with thoughtful and accomplished adults in charge. What really stayed with me from that first visit, though, was the impression Mr. Devetac made on me with his obvious dedication to students’ wellbeing and commitment to providing the best learning environment. So when I asked him what he thought about the school’s reputation as heavy-handed, or even military in the eyes of some adults, he chuckled and said in no uncertain terms: There must be rules for there to be learning. Honestly, the kinds of sanctions my kids have had to suffer during their first year at ILSE have amounted to being written up – if you accumulate too many write-ups, they affect your academic standing – for forgetting permission slips, talking in class, etc. They have served the purpose of breaking bad habits, so I fail to see how this is repressive.

As for the academic side of ILSE, this has been a year of transition for us. Perhaps not as demanding as I had expected outside of school hours, although the work has definitely ramped up the second half of the year; they spent a lot of time working on group projects the first part. I asked Mr. Devetac about this, given the comments from many expat parents here on the issue of group vs. individual work. He assured me that ILSE takes a balanced approach to the two, and that as of second year, students begin to produce term papers and other demanding individual projects. He also mentioned the worldwide shift in education toward prioritizing teamwork, alongside the importance of individual work and the self-discipline it requires. In the context of global education trends, we also discussed new technologies. Mr. Devetac acknowledged the need to incorporate them, with the caveat that not all of them have yet been proven to add value to education; in other words, the real benefits of new technology should always be kept in perspective.

Going back to what I mentioned earlier regarding the learning factor at school, I think it is sometimes difficult to distinguish between excellence and superior learning, especially for Americans since we come from such a competitive society where excellence always refers to top performance in school. I personally have really struggled with this issue this year. My kids, their ILSE classmates, and friends attending Pellegrini and Buenos Aires all seem to be focused on passing grades. Not top – just passing with a 7 or above. (It is a daily exercise for me to subdue the nagging alarm bells that anything below 88 is a C, mediocre, not up to par.) The fact is, they struggle to achieve these grades, spending hours studying for tests, producing charts, summaries, lists of definitions, etc. to prepare for long essay answers on everything from music history to Greek and Roman mythology. Not a multiple choice in sight, no standardized testing, no grading curve here. Then in my other ear, I get to hear from my friends and family in the States about their kids in wow high schools, all of whom are taking AP classes, in IB programs aiming for the best universities and jumping through the necessary hoops to get there: the coveted 4.0, stellar SAT scores, extracurriculars and all of the above. Bs are frowned upon. A friend recently sent me her daughter’s schedule, which ran from 6am-9pm and included scheduled activities on Sat. and Sun. in addition to the loads of homework. We don’t have that kind of “excellence” here. However, we do have lively conversations in which the kids spontaneously discuss things over dinner like the differences between the societies of  Sparta and Ancient Greece. They have strong opinions about learning Latin and syntax; they’re definitely much more verbal about school subjects than I ever was at that age. In fact, they seem to be learning a lot without being focused on the competitive aspect of top grades as a means to get somewhere else in the long-run. And I wonder if this way  of learning is really such a mediocre thing after all, what with so many paths available to them.

En fin, it turns out that ILSE was probably the best of all choices for us. I wouldn’t trade this for the kind of schedules kids have in the US, no matter how great their sports facilities, theater programs and state-of-art classroom technologies. My kids are engaged, challenged, well cared for, developing good habits, at times stressed about academics, but still have time to learn outside of school as well, which is equally – if not sometimes more – valuable. Perhaps I will write about that another time…

Reading Harry (Part 2, continued from previous post)

Just before leaving Europe for good, we did something extravagant: We flew the whole family to London to see the premiere of the HP4 movie. Although the movies have always been second-best to the books, that trip placed London at the top of Lucas’ and Fiona’s favorite-place-in-the-world list. So the vivid images of the Goblet of Fire, the World Quidditch Cup Tournament, Cedric Diggory’s death in the maze and Voldemort’s rebirth from a cauldron, were actually trumped by those of the dinosaurs in the Museum of Natural History, ice skating at the Tower of London, and a frigid hike across Kensington Gardens to find the statue of Peter Pan. Harry was still with us, but other things had begun to make noise in our kids’ awareness of the world around them.

We had already been in Argentina for a couple of years by the time the seventh and final book came out, and both kids had read the entire series on their own – some books more than once. In fact, they probably sat and listened to me read Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows more out of a spirit of solidarity with me than anything else. Even so, we still had a good cry together at the end: not only was Harry’s story over; it was the last time the three of us would sit and read together. We held on to the knowledge that we still had several films to go, which softened the blow a bit.

After that, there were just two more notable HP moments to add to the lot. One came in the most unexpected circumstances during a long hike in southern Patagonia one summer. Looking at 6 hours between departing the town of El Chaltén to get to one of the jaw-dropping glacial blue lakes in the Andes, the ‘how much longer’ question loomed large on our trek. Among our arsenal of stories, jokes, snacks and mind games to distract whining hikers, 20 questions always worked well. This time I decided to give it a Harry Potter theme. The kids’ categorical questions – Is is a magical creature? Is it a spell? Did it first appear in Book 3? – soon became a source of curiosity for other hikers on the trail, who started joining in. We ended up with a huge line of international Harry Potter fanatics all playing along with us! Seeing my kids as part of a global community of readers? Very cool moment.

So it’s been ten years since we started reading Harry and the time has come to say goodbye. Our final farewell at the movies last month was a fitting close to the saga not for its cinematographic recreation of The Deathly Hallows. In fact, the film took a backseat to the packed theater of fans, many of them dressed in Hogwarts robes, who clearly knew every scene by heart from multiple readings of the book. It was a crowd of readers whose real tears preempted every tragic death, whose shouts, cheers and applause mixed with the raging battle of Hogwarts students on screen to the point that it was hard to distinguish movie from audience. The effect of the collective emotions of all those teenagers not only surpassed the movie, they made the movie. Unforgettable.

The benefit of reading to one’s children goes without saying. What is perhaps not so often mentioned is the gift it gives to the parent who takes his child’s imagination seriously. Reading with my children has allowed me to inhabit the fictional places they have loved right alongside them. I have become the voice of Piglet, Brer Rabbit, and yes, Dobbie the house elf. It’s been a privilege I’ll never forget. Farewell, Harry – you will be missed.

Reading Harry (Part 1)

Fair warning: I am going to gush about Harry Potter. And I’m going to have to do it in installments. So bear with me only if you are a true fan. Since that final trip to the movies with my kids a few weeks ago to watch Harry and Voldemort fulfill their destinies, I have put off writing about it, mainly in hopes of gaining some perspective and reining in my drama queen. But I fear that my devotion to Harry will never really fade, and whenever I talk about him, it will always be with an exaggerated reverence that no doubt seems downright silly to the faithless. The fact is Harry is special to me because of the priceless bond he has forged and sustained between my kids and me throughout 10 years of their childhood. While they have gone through many phases of fascination with one literary character or another – Peter Pan, Merlin, Tom Sawyer –the 10-year run of Harry and his world is unmatched by any other, and has been the stuff of parenting bliss.

There were so many memorable moments; it all started with the paper maché owls that came home from kindergarten with Lucas and Fiona in the form of little balls of masking tape with owl faces drawn on and tiny envelopes stuck to them. Lucas would frenetically produce several of them each day after school, saying that he had to get the mail out to his classmates. He had a friend called Sam, who was telling him all about the owls, wands, Hogwarts and muggles (non-magical folk); his enthusiasm to learn more was just brimming over. Vaguely aware of the growing phenomenon of Harry Potter (back in 2001), I didn’t consider exploring the books because of my twins’ age at the time. However, I soon met Sam’s mother and she told me that Sam was an early reader; she had been reading HP aloud with him and discovered it to be a source of fascination and real stimulation for Sam. Because the boys had become such good friends – and were “writing” an HP play for their classmates – I decided that we would give Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone a try. That was the beginning of a journey through 7 books, 8 movies, learning to read, life in three countries, and the passage from childhood to teenagers. So, like Harry’s own passage into adulthood, his story will be forever intertwined with my own kids’.

There is a photograph of me reading that first book to Lucas and Fiona out in our backyard in Richmond, Va., not long before we packed up our life and moved it across the Atlantic to Spain. The kids are both staring into the middle distance with such rapt expressions – photographic evidence of having moved beyond picture books into the realm of full-blown imagination. The Harry Potter books particularly lend to being read aloud. Even after the kids started reading them on their own, we still read every new release aloud together. And they would always beg for “just one more chapter, please, Mommy!” And every time we got our hands on the next one, our mutual relishing of that first page together on the sofa – me cross-legged in the middle with one kid snuggled on either side – there was something nearly sinful about it, so utterly unimportant was everything else.

The orality of J.K. Rowling’s writing took the kids’ powers of concentration to new levels and set the stage for many of the long road trips to come in Europe, listening to one book on tape after another in the car  –  Roald Dahl, Maurice Sendak and many others – I think they love road trips for that very reason. On one such trip, Harry accompanied us all the way to France. Although we have always made a point of reading (and listening) to books in their original language, the only audiobook I could find in Seville was HP1 in Spanish. Since my husband had largely been left out of our little party of three when it came to Harry, it was a good way to let him in on it and try Harry out in Spanish for the long drive north. I believe we spent as much time in rapt listening mode in the car as we did exploring the castles ruins, camping or touring the Toulouse-Lautrec museum. We have fantastic photos and memories of that trip, but the narrator’s voice reading Harry in Spanish is the soundtrack that comes to mind every time I revisit them.

Then there was the invisibility cloak, conveniently left in the street for my husband to find and bring home to Lucas one day. It was a slippery, slinky black and silver thing that I think Lucas truly believed gave him powers of invisibility and certainly became the prize object in the kids’ costume trunk. Moving to Spain did nothing to tame the kids’ theatrical inclinations – they both lived in costume – so they attended their first HP bookstore event in Seville decked out in full Hogwarts regalia. Lucas with his invisibility cloak and round, broken glasses, and Fiona, of course, as Hermione in a long, natty brown wig (formerly belonging to one of the three Reyes Magos), with a broom and starry wand. Winding our way through the labyrinth of Seville, we ran into friends on the way (as one always does in the streets of Seville). A battle ensued between Lucas and a rival wizard from the other party, with threats in Sevillano Spanish mixed with spells in Latin. Wands drawn, the duel continued through the narrow streets, around corners and on into the bookshop. (I believe they both lost, flayed as they were on the floor as I recall. Hermione took a potion from her bag and revived Harry, thank goodness). As the flagship event in Seville at that time, the local media were there and we made the papers.

Sadly, our years in Spain came to an end sooner than planned. For personal reasons, we made the decision to move to Argentina at the end of 2005. Looking back to our first summer in Andalucía, and how we sweltered in a tiny apartment, searching for a place to live, waiting for the ship carrying our container to arrive and double-guessing the sanity of what we were doing, I also remembered the intensity of our immersion in Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets and The Prisoner of Azkaban that summer. Those endless hours of reading with Fiona and Lucas were the one constant in a family life that had been completely turned on its head when we left the US and moved to Spain; Harry became our anchor then. And so, less than 3 years later when the same thing was about to happen all over again – this time en route to Argentina – he was right there with us as we mentally prepared for our next adventure in international moving. First, there was the reading of Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince that last summer in Seville.  I have placid memories of our month housesitting for friends whose house came with a pool (serious luxury in the frying pan of Andalucia) and happy bike rides along the river and through the city, empty of noisy Sevillanos in August. Absolutely blissful end of summer. However, sadness befell us as well. One afternoon my husband came down from his nap to find his entire family in tears on the couch. In complete shock he asked what was wrong, fearing that someone had died. We all blubbered in unison, “Dumbledore is dead!” Obviously, the kids were mourning the death of a beloved character, but in my case, it was much more about the killing off of the last adult figure in Harry’s life and what that represented in the larger scheme of childhood waning. It had to be done. Even though my children were only 8 then, the upcoming move marked a turning point towards the later stages of childhood, in which I knew my presence would become increasingly less important. J.K. Rowling manages to consistently and poignantly capture the different stages of separation between children and the adults in their lives as Harry and his friends grow up. This surely comes from a writer who is keenly aware of her own role as a parent; for that she has my respect.

To be continued….

Food Culture in Argentina: It isn’t just about what people are eating

Once upon a time back in Virginia, I had some German friends who wanted to do something about their yard. So they got some big rolls of black plastic and covered every inch of it. They aimed to kill off all the unwanted species growing in their lawn and then replant only the desirable kind of soft, perfect green grass fit for bare German toes. My husband observed, “How very German. I bet if you really take a look at the way different people approach their gardening, it will reveal a lot about them.”

Gardening and any number of humanity’s other mundane habits. As a kind of cultural misfit myself, I am always thinking about this kind of thing. For example, how people’s eating habits vary so drastically from one culture to the next and what those habits say about people. And I don’t just mean what they eat, but more their attitude about food. Since this is something I constantly struggle with in Argentina, I’d like to add some of my ideas to what my friend Daniel (www.handofdan.com) so accurately observed in his recent blog post on the subject. And just to get the issue out of the way from the start, being American I don’t often bring up the food issue, knowing the kind of grief I’ll get about the audacity of any American pontificating about food habits. So in my defense, and taking Dan’s point about ‘lack of variety’ in the Argentine diet and what that implies in a broader cultural sense, I will just say that, along with the millions of obese Americans and fast-food culture in the US, there are also millions of very conscientious eaters, ethnic foods from every corner of the planet, a booming organic and sustainable agriculture movement and well-informed consumers – in other words, huge variety when it comes to food culture where I come from.

In all honesty, I actually feel that I eat very well in Argentina because the basic raw materials are excellent quality. Both my husband and I like to cook, have an array of recipe books, and generally find what we need to make fantastic meals for our family. Actually, in terms of fresh produce, the selection of fruits and vegetables here is infinitely superior to what we had to choose from when we lived in Spain. (Then again, we have really suffered on the seafood front with that move.) And also, compared to the first time I lived here in the mid-‘90s, the variety of restaurants has grown exponentially, so we do manage to eat out pretty frequently and enjoy things like Indian or Thai cuisine – unimaginable just a few years ago. That said, I almost never eat in typical Argentine restaurants – you know, the ones that serve the ubiquitous flavorless milanesa, overcooked pasta with bland tomato sauce or doughy pizza with that greasy stuff they call mozzarella and 4 green olives? This is what my kids’ friends eat and this is where I take issue.

I grew up in the South, the one where a kid could often be found stubbornly sitting in front of a plate of cold liver, onions and overcooked spinach at 11 pm (way past bedtime, but that’s another issue altogether) because his parents told him he could not be excused until he’d eaten everything on his plate. And while I certainly wouldn’t wish that approach on any kid, least of all my own, it is an expression of basic food culture – that not eating the food on one’s plate is unacceptable. There are other things that go along with it: not to eat it would be disrespectful to the person who cooked the food; a variety of food groups is the standard arrangement on the plate; eating what’s on your plate is mature, and therefore something to aspire to, while not doing so is childish. Even though I don’t torture my kids with the horror of liver and onions, these cultural attitudes about eating are indelibly imprinted on my brain and I believe in them. So there are usually at least three colors to every meal and everyone is expected to try everything at our house. To that, when I buy food I add what I know about things like the dangers of too much sugar, artificial soft-drinks, preservatives, antibiotics and hormones in industrialized agriculture that never even crossed my parents’ minds.

These food values I hold so sacred are, sadly, under constant threat of invasion in my house due to the sin salsita rule, my term for the Argentine way of eating. I’ll never forget the first time I heard it: We had a group of Argentine friends visiting us in Virginia and had prepared homemade gnocchi and several different sauces for our guests. As I was serving the plates, the mother of a teenage boy said, “Sin salsita para Matias, que no le gusta.” (No sauce for Matias, he doesn’t like it.) I remember thinking at the time ‘how bizarre and how rude.’ Living here now, I have learned that it is neither bizarre nor rude; it is the standard approach to eating in children (and many adults). Children are generally not expected to eat anything unusual or that they don’t like (vegetables), they are taught to be suspicious of anything different – better not try it lest one suffer the ghastly effect of ingesting something potentially spicy – commonly ask what’s in the food, and regularly make the statement ‘I don’t like that.’ None of this is considered disrespectful or even questionable. I get the sense that there is actually some nurturing element behind it – an overt observance of childhood likes so they will eat enough. Needless to say, these attitudes carry over into adults here as well; it is endlessly nerve-wracking to have to answer friends’ inquiries into the ingredients of what I cook, knowing that the motive behind the question is not curiosity but their fear of eating something unknown. Like when I had to tell people that my birthday cake was in fact a carrot cake; they all passed on that one. Fear of the carrot cake.

So going back to the question that Daniel raised regarding what eating habits say about society, he mentioned conservatism in the case of Argentina. I totally agree with this assessment, but I would also add the issue of trust (for a detailed exploration of trust in Argentina, see Taos Turner’s fascinating article http://www.argentinepost.com/2010/02/trust-friendship-development-in-argentina.html). I believe the food issue here is a just another everyday manifestation of the pervasive lack of trust in Argentina. People distrust their fellow Argentines in general, certainly their government, their banks, their maids, their porteros, so I feel pretty safe in venturing a guess that their mistrust of any unfamiliar ingredient in the tomato sauce comes from the same place: they fear having one pulled over on them, even when it comes to food. Otherwise, it’s really hard to figure how the clear historical influence of Italian cuisine didn’t also bestow the huge variety and creativity of Italian food on Argentina. Then too, there’s the “ethnic” categorizing attributed to foods here – salty, sweet, spicy – whereby any mixing of the categories is basically unthinkable to the Argentine palate. Perhaps this fits nicely with the real ethnic homogeneity here and intolerance of diversity?

Metaphors aside, there is one resounding difference that I think is key to understanding why food culture might have evolved as it has in Argentina: Other than their divine asados, Argentines do not generally prepare their own meals; their domestic help does or they buy takeout. In fact, particularly among women, there is a sense that cooking is beneath them. Cooking is not really a topic of discussion socially. And when people socialize, if it’s not over an asado or pizza, the closest thing to potluck is always empanadas and the insipid sandwichito de miga. So if food preparation is not considered worthy of anyone other than the menial service sector, and therefore irrelevant as an interesting topic, a skill, an art, etc., it’s not hard to understand that creativity, or the variety that comes of creativity, is not expected in food. Throw in the conservatism and distrust of any “foreign” ingredients and, voila: milanesa con papas fritas ad infinitum.

Actually, we do eat milanesas and papas fritas sometimes at home. We make it ourselves, throw in lots of garlic, fresh herbs and red pepper flakes and fry them up in olive oil.  My mom begs us to make them first thing whenever she comes to visit. Like I said, the raw materials here are superb – it’s really a matter of what you make of them. The possibilities are endless. Kind of like the country itself.

A Lesson for Me

At the urging of the fantastic people in my writing group, I will change directions with this post and submit something that just came out of a writing exercise. This also allows me to start living up to what I said my original post about looking at the topic of education from different angles. So this one is just a daily lesson for myself.

Right now I’m feeling annoyed. I would have to say that if I had to describe my most common state, it would be annoyed. At the moment, it has to do with ineptitude, or maybe it’s inefficiency or lack of organization, overlooking of details or whatever it is that causes things to not work in Argentina. Present example: Filing a complaint to have the damn tree in front of my house pruned. I have done this before. It’s been 5 years. They’ve never pruned it. The branches cover what little light that’s not already blocked out by the monstrous building going up across the street from our house; they also reach into our small balcony making it easy for a smallish chorro to break in. (I refuse to cage in the balcony and windows.) In past attempts, I’ve ether called the reclamos number or filed the online complaint form. This time I’ve decided to attack on three fronts: by phone, online, and a personal visit to my local CGPC. Since I’ve stayed home to write today, I start with the simplest first, the online complaint. First snafu: A brief description of problem is requested, so I start with ‘Tree branches growing into balcony and co— the text box apparently doesn’t allow for more. So I try ‘Tree needs pruning.’ This elicits a message informing me that there are ‘no matches’ in the system. So I finally just settle on ‘tree.’ Bingo. I can move on to the next screen. From there on, all goes well—through several tedious screens, I might add—until I click on ‘Submit complaint.’ The message: System error. Please file your complaint by phone. Well, there’s fifteen minutes of my time wasted and a third of my strategy sunk.

At best this makes for a summary anecdote of the daily challenges we all face living in Buenos Aires. However, I don’t notice everyone else suffering such a generalized affliction of annoyance. I mean, just the other day I asked my son if he could tell me why he thought his obsession with one particularly violent video game might be bothering me, and he said, ‘Because everything bothers you, Mom.’ One of those parental moments when you just have to shut down and admit they’re right and you’re wrong.

So if this is true—maybe not everything, but many things annoy me—I really need to ask myself why that is, or at least why I seem to lack basic perspective on the daily annoyances. Perhaps I’m distorting simplicity. The simplicity of everyday tasks in the place I come from—how easy it is to park your car, rent an apartment, check out at the supermarket, open a bank account or even get a social security number—is the spotlight I constantly shine on similar errands here. It can and should all be so simple, so why is it so consistently not? It’s almost like I apply some sort of universal law of simplicity that keeps eliciting the same response: System error.

Where I come from… the same place all those people cheering the death of Bin Laden do. Ding dong, the witch is dead and we can all go back to Kansas. Simplicity at its best, right? There was this evil guy who will no longer terrorize, so we’re all safe now. Simplicity and fast, easy solutions are ingrained in the American psyche, making it hard for many of us to deal with complexity, grey areas, etc. Or some of us anyway; just the other day I met a New Yorker who said he had given up his high salaried job/hectic life to move here because the easiness of everyday tasks in the US made life dull; the challenges of life’s minutiae here had restored something vital for him.

After nearly ten years of living abroad, I know this is true – that jumping life’s daily hurdles, no matter how preposterous and illogical, makes it all somehow more meaningful than going through on auto-pilot. It’s part of the reason I left too; but sometimes I just want to go to Target and load my cart full of cheap and easy stuff. When will I ever grow out of this?

One in a Crowd: Group Culture vs. Individualism

            I remember the first time my kids had a big group of school friends over to our house in Buenos Aires – they were in 4th grade. There were about 10 kids sitting in a circle on our rooftop terrace mulling over what to play. I stood and spied at the door, amazed at how civil they were about their negotiations, how seriously they took it! And from what I knew so far about their new school, I thought ‘How wonderful that they should foster such a spirit of cooperation.’ I sensed I was seeing the effects of their new school culture playing out directly in their social lives.  I left them alone to play and came back to check on them about 20 minutes later. To my surprise, they were still seated in the same circle, but there was some arguing going on by then about what they were going to play: jump rope, la mancha, twister, etc. So I stepped in to mediate and pointed out that there were enough of them to break into smaller groups so everyone could play what they liked. They all looked up at me with perplexed faces until one spoke up: “What’s the point of getting together if we’re not going to all play the same thing?” Hard to know what to say to that.

Then again, I guess I shouldn’t have been so surprised if I think about how groups of Argentine adults socialize. Have you ever been at a party where Argentines predominate and somehow you find yourself in a circle in which all present participate in the same conversation, whether there are 5 or 25 of them? You really have to be assertive – not always easy to maneuver linguistically, regardless of how well you might speak Spanish. In terms of discourse, English-speakers tend to have two-way or very small groups conversations, which ensures that all present can make their individual points – stand out and make themselves heard, so to speak. But in the multi-player Argentine version, the numbers have a dimming effect on most of the speakers who don’t happen to be “big” personality types, so it’s kind of hard for all 25 to shine. I often find myself really wishing people would mingle more at social gatherings here instead of “the big circle”…

And just one more example of what I’m getting at, for any of you on school parent e-mail lists here, you know how annoying all those endless email responses like ‘sí; ok; de acuerdo; listo; también; etc.’ in your inbox can be? Recently, when one parent suggested we make a Yahoo group so as to only have to receive the one daily summary, with very few exceptions, the rest overwhelmingly e-voted the motion down, saying that they preferred to ‘see the ongoing exchange because it gave them a better sense of the group dynamic.’ Down with efficiency in the name of togetherness.

Anyway, back to the kids, unlike my school years, where class groups were shuffled with every passing year so we had to annually adapt to a new group, here in Argentina classes are kept together sometimes from as early on as preschool throughout elementary school, and even on through high school. In fact, at the first parent meeting at our kids’ new high school, several parents lamented how their children were struggling with having to leave their childhood class behind. The sentiment in our house is very different – we’re all celebrating the expanding social horizons high school has opened up to the kids. Mainly, we hope the new environment will allow them to more deeply explore their unique abilities and interests and excel as individuals, because elementary school seemed to be a lot more about fostering group interests, both socially and academically.

Like other foreign parents I have talked to, I found the lack of individual assessment from my children’s teachers disconcerting throughout elementary school; grade reports were mostly in the context of the child’s performance as part of the group. The two annual individual reports were formulaic and showed little knowledge of my kids’ academic strengths or weaknesses. Even though it is just as important to me as the next parent that my kids feel socially accepted and respect the group dynamic, it was strange to see how this played out  academically, as if individual achievement and group role were somehow at cross purposes. Just like the kids refusing to play until everyone agreed on the game up on the rooftop, I sensed a real premium placed on the group advancing “as one” with their coursework – let no child be left behind. The fact is faster learners were indeed left behind:  to boredom, or its constant companion – mischief, as they continued working on the same concepts until everyone caught up; not until then could everyone move on.

This idea of the whole class as part of a common project in unity is particularly at odds with the notion of differentiated work for individual students, whether they happen to be gifted in math or speak English as their native language. When it comes to proposals to allow native-English speakers to opt out of mandatory EFL classes, the central argument from school authorities is the disruption of group unity; they see this as potentially damaging to the child’s social acceptance and the overall group dynamic. This also applies to suggestions of differentiated, level-appropriate work for English natives, the argument again being that setting them apart may somehow break down the fabric of the class. It just seems to me that this pretty much disregards the academic needs of individual students in favor of the group.

Argentines are actually very self-critical about their own individualistic tendencies. You will often hear people lament how individualism has taken hold of the country, everyone only out for themselves, no concern for the common good, this of course being at the root of all the crime and corruption. Perhaps. But at least in terms of social education, what I see my kids absorbing is much more about going along with the group and putting their individual differences on a lower plain, both socially and academically. This surely promotes tolerance, solidarity and cooperation, but I have also witnessed how it teaches them to be careful not to shine too brightly.

All this has made me reflect on what I really believe in. If asked whether I favor a school environment that fosters group harmony and tolerance, of course the answer is yes; but it never would have occurred to me that such an environment might also downplay the importance of individual achievement in the same classroom because I don’t see the two as mutually exclusive. So this has led me to wonder about the notion of individualism in Argentina, which I sense is equated with selfishness, whereas I see it as  more related to each individual attaining his or her unique potential. In fact, the different angles the two languages take are illustrated in standard dictionary definitions of individualism. The English is from the American Heritage Dictionary, the Spanish from the Real Academia:

English

1. n. Belief in the primary importance of the individual and in the virtues of self-reliance and personal independence.

Spanish

1. m. Tendencia a pensar y obrar con independencia de los demás, o sin sujetarse a normas generales. (Tendency to think or operate independently of others or without abiding by general rules.)

Just in these definitions alone, you can see the contrasting values associated with the term. I suppose this would explain why, by the end of elementary school, I was feeling like my personal value system was slightly under assault. If nothing else, it has given me a lot to reflect on in terms of why these things bother me, and how much the cultural ethos we grow up in shapes our beliefs.

Then again, the slate has been wiped clean now that my kids have moved up to high school. And I am hopeful that we may see a different atmosphere of encouragement when it comes to their unique qualities, given that they certainly had to stand out in the crowd to get in in the first place. Ideally, this will provide some sense of balance in which they feel more confident to express themselves as individuals but remain sensitive to the larger group around them.

In Defense of Buenos Aires Public Schools for a Change

After a seemingly  endless summer break immediately followed by a long weekend, we are finally back to school for good in Buenos Aires. To start things off, I’d like to post some follow-up comments I received from another parent in response to my article Expat Parents, Bilingual Kids and Argentine Schools , mainly because it broadens the take on public schools in the city of Buenos Aires. She also reiterates  something pointed out by a number of parents I interviewed regarding the prioritization of group over individual interests in the classroom, which I plan to talk about in my next post. Here’s what she had to say:

When we came to think about what to do for primary school, we decided that it would be good to have the school support our home English, so we looked for one that had a good level of English tuition. Everyone we asked said we should only look at private schools, and we were put off public schools, comments were really negative. We searched and researched and alighted on the New Model in Palermo.

The New Model’s level is good for Argentinian kids, who do learn to speak and write in English. But clearly they were pointless for ours. Funnily enough, our son did not complain of being bored in the afternoons – it is mostly taught through games and drama, so he was able to enjoy it anyhow. The thoughts of the head of English boiled down to what appears to be the standard approach to education here, which is that the point is the group goals and not the development of the individual, and even working in small groups was not really an option.

But to our surprise, our son complained of being bored in the mornings (basic curriculum, in Spanish). The rationale of class work being the same for everyone was practised and even though the head was open to doing differentiated work, the teachers we had were too inexperienced to be able to carry it out.

Triggered by a 38 per cent rise in school fees for next year, we sat down to assess if the education we were putting the kids through still made sense to us. Taking English off the requirements for a school opened up an unknown landscape; throwing in the preference for fewer hours spent institutionalised, it cut out nearly all private schools. So that led fairly naturally to considering public schools, where they could go mornings only.

So we did check out our neighbourhood schools. And we found all sorts.  A few short on kids and looking very sad. But what came as a bit of shock (to our ignorance) was the general high quality of facilities and staff priorities and small class numbers (15 to 25 in most schools). This is not to romanticise public schools and say everything was great, but many of the efforts felt more rigorous and thought through than I’ve come across interviewing private school heads in the past. And they were open about problems and they talked of dealing with them with the cooperadora – and we were sold on being able to contribute to a public good and not to education based on some individual’s profit-making.

I would say to anyone thinking of schools, do go and look at your local public schools, and see what you think, they are not as dire as most people make out.

So, our kids are now enrolled in a school that does medio turno, three blocks away from home, walking distance to lunch. In a lovely building that has a big sports field with trees and a huerta, a covered patio for rainy days, a great library, computer room, digital screen, lab, music room… And they have the afternoons for learning in other ways, in English, more suited to the sum of cultures we have foisted upon them…

The Transition

In my personal struggle to make sense of school options—the ones we’ve foregone and the ones we’ve chosen—I’d like to reflect on the hand we’ve been dealt over this past school year (7th grade). For anyone new to Argentina, the system here approaches the configuration of grade levels in the following way: There are basically only two stages, i.e., primary (1st-7th) and secondary (8th-12th years), thus doing away with the dreaded middle-school stage. This makes seventh grade the gateway into high school, and a time of major transition for many kids.

Like all big cities, Buenos Aires has good (few) and bad (many) public high schools, in addition to an entire gamma of private options. Given our experience in the private school of our choice in elementary school, we decided to go with one of the most limited and rigorous public options for high school. Buenos Aires fortunately has a top tier of selective high schools that belong to the university (UBA) system: Carlos Pellegrini, El Colegio Nacional Buenos Aires, I.L.S.E (half public/half private) and Agronomía. What that means is they operate with public university funds, the teachers have university degrees (as opposed to teacher’s school diploma), are UBA faculty members, classes are known to be academically rigorous, and these school are autonomous in defining their curricula (i.e., they are not subject to city or provincial oversight).

Aside from standing apart academically, these schools are also notoriously difficult to get into. They all require prospective students to attend a prep course several hours per week throughout seventh grade (outside regular school hours) in preparation for the entrance exams. However, so concerned are parents about their kids’ preparedness for the exams, most opt to enroll them in private study centers in addition to the official course.

Because I tend to question the way things are done (a lot), I initially was not in favor of supplementing the mandatory classes with additional private ones. Mainly because I thought 6 hours a week should certainly be more than enough extra class time, and furthermore I am loath to follow the herd—in this case, the herd of parents signing their kids up for extra classes. I then learned that, essentially, in not giving them all those extra hours of help, I would be placing mine at a disadvantage in comparison to the herd (kind of like not driving an SUV in any US suburb…). So in the end, and mainly at my own children’s insistence, I gave in and enrolled them two afternoons a week at one of the private study centers (El Velasco, Silvina y Gustavo, Cursiva, just to name a few). So their seventh-grade schedule looked like this:

Regular school            8-1:30

Study Center                 2:45-5:15            M/Th.

Entrance course          6:30-9:30pm             Tues.

9am-12noon            Sat.

I rationalized this decision based on my determination for them to get in, but also on my hunch that their current school would waste away the morning hours even more so than in previous years with no individual effort expected outside of school. (This I had on the authority of numerous other parents and turned out to be resoundingly true.) Therefore, all those extra—and expensive—class hours were, for me, insurance against the academic freefall awaiting them in their last year of—also expensive—elementary school. In this sense, it was a good decision and I’m glad they were spending their afternoons finally sinking their teeth into some real content and how to go about processing and storing it all; however, in hindsight, I would say that in terms of really giving them an extra advantage on the actual tests, that part really came down to us in the end.

After the first couple of months of practice tests turned out some pretty mediocre scores, we decided to get more involved ourselves to flesh out the problems. Without going into the intricacies of each of my children’s learning tendencies and study habits, I can confidently say that their inadequacies or weak areas were easily identifiable and it was surprising that the private study center, considering what we were paying, did not seem to have done so themselves by that point. We ended up taking care of all the bad habits through intense work and study strategies at home. At the end of the day, I think that this effort along with the official course would have been sufficient, although I am thankful that the private classes at least provided some consistency in what otherwise would have been a sort of year-long academic joyride school-wise.

And just a brief promotion of our new school, we chose ILSE for several reasons. Although it is not completely public (there is a fee of $600/month—miniscule compared to private schools), it does otherwise function as a public institution under the same conditions mentioned previously. The extra cost presumably goes towards ensuring that the teachers don’t adhere to the frequent public school strikes so common in Argentina; ILSE stands apart as the one UBA school that holds classes on strike days. Also, it only has two turnos (shifts) per day—morning and afternoon—unlike the Pellegrini and Nacional that have three, meaning that students at those schools may get the night shift. This last factor was a non-possibility for me so the choice was pretty easy.

This transitional year has been a priceless year of learning for both my kids and their parents. We’re all much more aware of their strengths and weaknesses and they especially now know how it is within their power to overcome the latter. And once again, I have seen how having to compensate for the failings we encounter is an essential part of their education.

Expat Parents, Bilingual Kids and Argentine Schools

Expats face an array of daily challenges ranging from societal values to language, food and eating habits, gender dynamics, bureaucracy, driving, shopping, etc. And for those of us who are parents, raising and educating our kids would likely top this list as the biggest challenges of all, because they touch the core of what makes us who we are: Like it or not, we raise our children in terms of our own childhood experiences, which ultimately laid the groundwork for the people we are as adults. Whether to undo, improve on or maintain the lessons learned while growing up, how we approach bringing up our own kids is a reflection of that experience and therefore heavily loaded culturally and personally. Doing so in a foreign context is therefore fraught with difficulties, because the cultural parameters may be vastly different; and when it comes to school itself, everything from the supply list, to parent attitudes, to education policy in general can serve to complicate our decisions, baffle, frighten or, just maybe, if we’re lucky, free us from old, ingrained ideas and assumptions. After all, the fact that we are expats in the first place likely means that we are people who do not necessarily settle for the standard operating procedure in the places we came from. So what happens when we immerse ourselves in another, albeit foreign, version of “mainstream” when it comes to educating our children?

Having muddled through the Argentine system with my own kids over the past five years, I decided to do a survey of other foreign parents to gain some perspective on the experience. I chose to focus only on expats from English-speaking countries (the UK, US and Australia), given the significant role English plays in most school curricula here and the subsequent effect this has on kids for whom English is a first language. The questions parents answered covered topics related to the process of choosing a school; degree of satisfaction with that choice; school choice as a reflection of their own schooling; Argentine cultural values; and English classes, among others.  Parents addressed several concerns about their children’s education, both universal and specific to Argentina. Their answers also reveal some surprising discoveries that may be useful to others facing the difficult task of finding a school for their children here.

The crisis in education is a phenomenon that knows no borders; however, what that crisis entails and the reasons associated with it from one country to the next are undeniably shaped by the history, society and education policies implemented in each place. In the case of Argentina in particular, the last dictatorship left an imprint on Argentine society that plays out in myriad ways, just one of which is the effect on education – both public and private – and the attitudes and expectations of modern Argentine parents, many of whom were students during the repressive dictatorship of the 1970s. This is no small matter when it comes to understanding schools in Argentina. The dictatorship that came to power in Argentina in 1976 considered schools to be fertile ground for subversion, and therefore in need of a return to traditional values achievable only through order and repression. During that time, high school and university students were blacklisted and reported by teachers to military authorities, detained and often never seen again.  It is therefore not surprising that the generation of parents who grew up during those years of repression would expect the very ethos of school to be radically different for their children.

As a result, many schools here now fortunately take a very child-centered approach to learning, often highlighting group dynamics, democracy in the classroom and a sense of belonging. Particularly for parents of younger children, these features may be all the more appealing in the absence of other education jargon such as testing, standards, accountability, etc. However, the premium placed on learning through play and group projects may have parents wondering about things like academic excellence and individual achievement once their children are older; what seemed ideal in first grade often turns into noisy classrooms, general lack of discipline, no apparent study habits and disregard for authority in sixth. Could it be that what began in the 1980s as a genuine move in favor of kinder, more democratic schools with a critical eye toward authoritarianism may have swung too far in the direction of ‘no room for order at all’ in many Argentine classrooms?

Private, non-religious bilingual schools were the target of parents’ most critical views. Schools like Arco Iris, Jacarandá, N.E.A., Escuela del Árbol, Aletheia, Mundo Nuevo, Amapola – to mention a few – have a broad appeal among professional, middle-class, well-educated and often progressive-minded Argentines. And since many expats living here fit this same description, many of them also initially find these schools appealing. They are more affordable as far as private schools go, tend to have constructivist-based curricula, focus on creativity, foster a sense of community and learning through experience. Despite the draw of such features, however, the educational experience often turns sour for many parents once their children are enrolled. The disparity between the ever-rising cost of these schools (tuitions have roughly tripled over the past 4 years) and the overall quality of education that they provide is no doubt a factor in parent dissatisfaction. Everything from noisy, chaotic classrooms to overt Argentine nationalism (lots of flag-waving and exaggerated reverence for Argentine heroes, yet scarce attention to the rest of the world) and xenophobia are mentioned in association with these schools. Several parents also pointed to the prioritization of group interests over individual achievement. This is a particularly touchy issue in that it gives pause for reflection on the standard allegation by many Argentines that Anglo culture (particularly the US variety) is so individualistic. It highlights the different spin on the term as often used here (i.e., egocentric, single-minded) compared to its true meaning (one that asserts individuality through independence of thought and action). This factor is also echoed in children’s report cards, which parents say do not convey any individual feedback for the most part, focusing mainly on the child’s role in group work. Another overriding concern for many parents from English-speaking countries with a common tradition of reading and love of books is the apparent absence of any similar sentiment in many schools here.

Wasted time in English classes that cannot address the needs of native English-speakers is also a major issue for parents with children in these Spanish/English bilingual schools. Initially welcomed as assets to the class, parents claim there is no follow-up effort made to find suitable materials, books, or give these kids any type of role in English class that would make for meaningful learning for both them and their classmates; again, they are expected to “go along” with the group. This is an aspect of schooling that foreign parents from English-speaking countries should be particularly aware of, and deserves special mention here.

Argentine parents want their children to be proficient in English in order to be globally competitive in the future; and schools likewise take the importance of English seriously. This has resulted in a plethora of private bilingual schools here that cater to local parent demands for more English. What is interesting to note is the number of hours devoted to English in comparison to other subjects in these schools. As pointed out, Argentine society understandably gives high priority to English, but is it more important than Spanish, math or science? According to the number of class hours, yes it is. Bilingual schools in Buenos Aires (both primary and secondary) devote an average of 6 class hours (horas cátedras) per week to English – some considerably more – in comparison to Spanish, math, science or social studies, which often get only 3 or 4 hours of class time per week. Curiously, this has as much to do with the traditional Argentine school day, which the Ministry of Education sets at 4 hours minimum, as it does with the high premium placed on English. So in the case of most schools that now offer doble turno, all those extra hours are being poured into English instead of an increase in core academics. Not to diminish the importance of English in the world today, but it is perplexing, even if one could make an argument for this many hours per day devoted to a foreign language, why some of those hours couldn’t be used to teach other subjects (science, history, creative writing) in English (or Spanish, for that matter)? Only a very few of the higher-priced private schools take this approach. Perhaps the better question to ask would be: Why are the core subjects of math, language/literature, social studies and science kept at so few hours? As expats who come from countries with 6, 7 or 8-hour school days, it is difficult not to wonder.

Given the value placed on English, there is then a certain irony in the fact that children who are already bilingual are actually at a disadvantage when it comes to Argentine bilingual schools. The reality is that all those English hours in the dozens of “bilingual” schools have very little to offer a child whose first language is English; they are about intensive English-learning for Spanish-speakers, and are not designed to address the needs of English natives. It would stand to reason then, as a parent of a bilingual child, to choose a monolingual school and not waste hours on English for learners; however, as already mentioned, the standard academic day is only 4 hours long here. Therefore, if you want your child to have a full day of school in Buenos Aires, you must either pay a very high price or resign yourself to the fact that roughly half of their day will be wasted hours in English class in most cases. Other than the array of mid-priced private bilingual schools, one is left with basically three alternatives: half-day public school; the very expensive American or British schools (price-prohibitive for many); or bypassing English altogether at the German, Italian or French schools. It is this last option that generated some of the broadest support from parents. This is what one US parent had to say about the Lycée Jean Mermoz:

“There were two factors that led us to discard the English/Spanish bilingual option. One is that we did not think that many of them are as good overall academically as the French school and even their English programs are not great; non-native English teachers, for example. So we thought it would be easier to supplement English language skills at home than to have to compensate for a lower quality overall education. And in terms of the very good English/Spanish schools (San Andres, Northlands, etc.), they have a socio-economic profile that seemed elitist for our taste. The French school has a more heterogeneous public, which we love, and the idea of having a bilingual/bicultural family exists there. They have excellent academics and also incorporate a great deal of culture, art and literature into the general education. It is an institution where the cultural values of France, such as equality, respect for rules and authority, are very much present. This is extremely important for me as they are values that I feel are part of my culture as a US citizen, but that are not valued in Argentine culture.”

The diversity mentioned with regard to the French school is also highlighted by parents of kids who attend Lincoln, the American school. As part of an international system that offers consistency as well as a diverse student population, it is an appealing option for diplomatic families and those who work for large corporations and move often; its price-tag, however, offsets these advantages for many families.

As regards the overall state of public education in Argentina, the lack of available resources and teacher strikes are a big deterrent for a majority of parents in the case of public schools. Even if one comes from a public school background with committed ideals to public education, it is difficult to stick to one’s convictions in the face of public school reality in Argentina. Fewer resources means kids are exposed to fewer valuable experiences, such as gaining computer skills, access to quality art and music classes or a proper school library, not to mention the limited class hours. And the likelihood that your child may be deprived of many days of school due to teacher strikes makes this a tough choice indeed.  Nevertheless, some of the most satisfied parents interviewed were those whose children attend public primary school No. 13 in the Colegiales neighborhood. They pointed to the integrity of the school climate forged by its long-time director, and the importance of the school’s cooperadora in pushing new initiatives. Good teachers who know their students well on an individual basis, a strong emphasis on reading, the director’s open-door policy and responsiveness to parent requests, and the enthusiasm for learning observed by parents of expat kids in this school make it stand out not only among public schools, but among all primary schools included in the survey. Unfortunately, this was the only public school mentioned by parents in the survey; as a general rule, foreign parents do not often choose public school for the same reasons many Argentines do not.

As a parent of 8-yr-old twins when I came here, I was quite happy to forgo such things as regular standardized testing, heavy loads of homework and long school hours common in the US, in favor of an Argentine version that seemed kinder and more respectful of childhood. Later in elementary school, however, that conviction began to wane in the face of concern for academics and readiness for serious study. To my surprise, however, on the verge of entering high school, my kids have stepped up to the proverbial plate and proven that, even though they may not have been academically challenged in elementary school, they are nevertheless more capable of putting in long study hours and doing well on difficult high school entrance exams than I probably was at their age. I cannot help but wonder if this is not the result of an academic maturity that was allowed to take its due course, along with the advantages of growing up “between” places, which by default makes changing gears easier for them. And one more surprise that I discovered as a result of the “disadvantage” of already being bilingual in school: Using that to our kids’ advantage by taking them out of English altogether at school and hiring a native tutor to use those hours wisely and keep them reading, writing and covering other subjects in English has put them ahead of grade level.

Despite all the issues mentioned here, which have caused me many sleepless nights, I also share the sentiment expressed by everyone in their answers to the last survey question, “What is the most important aspect of your child’s education for you?” Without fail, everyone mentioned the importance of the examples set at home in terms of love of learning, critical thinking, awareness of the broader world and curiosity. As expats, we are privileged in being able to provide our children with this type of education in addition to (or in spite of) any school. And perhaps being in a place like Argentina that provides the circumstances to “make one’s own adaptations” to the school environment might just be a blessing in disguise.